Le Piane Mimmo 2020
Le Piane Mimmo 2020
92pts Vinous (Galloni)
Tasted alongside the 2019, the 2020 Mimmo is a bit more generous and easier to appreciate in its youth. Succulent dark red cherry, sage, menthol, licorice, and herbs are nicely amplified in a wine that marries fruit intensity with structure. (11/2023)
Less structured and riper parts of “Boca DOC” (Nebbiolo and Vespolina grapes) are blended after 2 years of aging in large barrels together with riper Croatina grapes (10%) to produce a wine which is more amenable than “Boca DOC” and functions as good door-opener to the more complex but also more demanding flagship wine “Boca DOC”. There is a nice floral and fruity flavour with a soft elegance and long-lasting taste.
Grapes: 65% Nebbiolo, 30% Croatina, 5% Vespolina (approx)
Vineyard: 2ha: 1,480-1,640 ft asl; Soil is crumbled porphyr of volcanic origin. Vineyards of Nebbiolo planted in 1998-2004, Croatina and Vespolina 100-year old vines.
Winemaking: The Nebbiolo parts come from the same sites and are treated in the same way as the Boca parts, the division between Boca DOC and Mimmo is made after two years of aging in big barrels and then by tastings. Fermentation with the skins in stainless steel tanks and in open wood casks with rimontaggio for 5-6 days.
Maturation: It matures for two years in tonneaux of 500l (20% new) and big barrels of Slavonian oak. Malolactic fermentation in spring naturally in wooden casks. Bottling after 2 years of refinement.
At the top of their game, these wines compete with Barolo and Barbaresco in terms of elegance, territorial typicity and longevity. These are some of Piedmont’s most expressive, soulful wines.
The Boca appellation in the province of Novara makes wines that are 70% to 90% Nebbiolo, also known as Spanna in this part of Piedmont. Two other indigenous grapes, Vespolina and Uva Rara, can represent up to 30% of a Boca blend. The wines see 34 months of aging, 18 of which must be in oak. A Boca Riserva must age for 46 months (with 24 months in oak).
One producer looms largest and is almost exclusively responsible for the under-the-radar cult following Boca enjoys today. That producer is Le Piane, run by a Swiss-born vintner named Christoph Künzli. The estate was founded by Antonio Cerri, an old-school artisan who created the blueprint for these exciting and eccentric wines, thanks to his sheer passion and determination.
The magic of Le Piane is that the singular vision of one vintner happened to perfectly align with the vintner who would follow. Both men, Antonio Cerri and Christoph Künzli, operate on a seamless continuum of style, approach and execution. To understand Boca, you must start with Le Piane.
Christoph Künzli and his enologist friend Alexander Trolf acquired Le Piane from the 80-year-old Cerri in 1998. The Piedmont-born Chianti Classico winemaker Paolo De Marchi of Isole e Olena introduced his friend Christoph Künzli to the Boca appellation and to Le Piane. That friendship inspired Christoph Künzli to pursue and safeguard the Boca wine identity.