93 points Vinous Media
Drinking window: 2028 - 2048
The 2023 Bandol La Tourtine originates from south-facing clay soils overlooking the sea, an early-ripening site that clearly leaves its mark on the wine’s generous expression. It opens with an intense aromatic profile of ripe blackberry, dried herbs and fleshy savoury notes. Full-bodied and shaped by ripe, exceptionally well-integrated tannins, the 2023 retains immaculate freshness throughout. More flamboyant and ripe-fruited than the Lulu & Lucien and La Migoua from the same vintage, this La Tourtine derives extra swagger from its Grenache component.

Head Winemaker Antoine Cunin welcomed me at Domaine Tempier, one of Bandol’s benchmark estates. The domaine now comprises 60 hectares of vineyard divided among over 200 individual parcels, a fragmented holding that reflects both the complexity of the appellation and Tempier’s longstanding commitment to expressing distinct sites. Production remains more focused on reds than the Bandol norm. Rosé still accounts for the largest share of the domaine’s production at about 55%, with reds representing around 40% and whites 5%. In the broader appellation, Rosé is far more dominant, making Tempier’s sustained emphasis on serious reds a defining part of the domaine’s identity. That identity is reinforced by a cellar approach built around precision. Across whites, Rosés and reds, all fruit is sorted and fully destemmed. For the whites and Rosés, malolactic fermentation is consistently blocked in order to preserve freshness in a warm climate. The whites are raised in large oak casks ranging from 12 to 30 hectoliters. The domaine consistently employs a little longer élevage for the white Bandol than many peers, followed by additional bottle time before release—a measured approach that allows the wines to gain harmony and complexity. The same philosophy of patience and control shapes Tempier’s iconic reds. Fermentation takes place in either concrete or stainless-steel tanks depending on the parcel, with only very few and light daily pumpovers. The aim, as Cunin explained, is infusion rather than extraction. Punchdowns and rack-and-return are avoided entirely, and maceration lengths rarely exceed three weeks. After a few days in tank, the wines are moved to the foudre cellar, where malolactic fermentation finishes in wood over the winter. The overall effect encourages fine tannins, avoids vegetal hardness and allows Mourvèdre to speak with clarity.

That nuance becomes especially clear in the red range. The classic Lulu & Lucien (formerly labeled simply as Bandol), is based on 75% Mourvèdre, with the balance made up of Grenache, Cinsaut, Carignan and Syrah. At the next level are three single-terroir wines: La Tourtine comes from a 5.5-hectare site near Le Castellet, planted to 85% Mourvèdre with the remainder split between Grenache and Cinsaut. Windy and fully exposed from sunrise to sunset, with sandstone and marl soils over clay, La Tourtine blends power and elegance remarkably well, often with just a touch of Grenache flamboyance. Cabassou, by contrast, is a warmer and more protected 1.5-hectare site at the foot of La Tourtine. Despite its position lower on the slope, the soils are shallow and yields are tiny. With the highest proportion of Mourvèdre among the three single-terroir wines (around 94%), Cabassou is typically the most powerful and slowest to mature. Finally, La Migoua, from higher-elevation parcels around 300 meters above sea level, is the most open-knit of the trio, with only about 55% Mourvèdre and a notably larger share of Cinsaut, supported by Grenache and Syrah. The white, a blend of 60% Clairette with Ugni Blanc, Rolle, Bourboulenc and Marsanne, is now largely sourced from vineyards acquired from Domaine de La Laidière in 2016. This tasting made it abundantly clear why Domaine Tempier remains one of the appellation’s reference points. These are wines of authority and fine detail, built to age with confidence, including in the Rosé category. - Nicolas Greinacher May 2026

Located near Castellet, this terroir is extremely windy but also exposed to the sun from sunrise to sunset. The soil is composed of sandstone and marl of the Santonian (75-90 Ma); gypsum can be found on the surface. Although located at the top of the hill, the soil is relatively deep with a lot of clay. The vines mature easily on the hillside favorable to Mourvèdre. It is said that Mourvèdre likes to look at the sea with its feet in the water (in other words with sufficient water supplies).

La Tourtine blends power and elegance. The cuvée is selected from this exceptional terroir of only 5.5 hectares.