Domaine Simon Bize Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Grands Liards 2023
Domaine Simon Bize Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Grands Liards 2023
92 points Jasper Morris, MW (Inside Burgundy)
Mid crimson purple. Quite reductive, which makes the fruit firmer at the finish. Clearly greater density than the regular village wine, and proper persistence, but less joyous at the moment while reductive. Just a question of time. Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Oct 2024.
91 points Vinous Media
Drinking window: 2026 - 2036
The 2023 Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Grands Liards is quite understated on the nose as dark berry fruit meets forest floor and pressed flower scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. The acidity is well-judged and harmonious, perhaps needing just a little more complexity to develop on the finish. Drink over the next decade.
“I have to ask you a question,” I ask Hugo Bize. “Do you like wine?”
I was not being impetuous. Just that several years ago, when asking all Burgundy vignerons their favorite wine, Bize nonchalantly replied that he wasn’t really into it. But he was a teenager back then. The good news is that he not only caught the wine bug but is now actively involved in the running of his mother’s Savigny-based Domaine, along with winemaker Eric Pignal (see last year’s report for his CV). The appellation has been beset by challenging vintages in recent years, but 2023 blessed the Domaine with a full complement of cuvées.
“It was a warm growing season,” Pignal explains, “but there were some showers in August that were beneficial. We had two warm periods before and during harvest. We started picking on August 31 in Savigny Vergelesses, then the rest from September 4 until 16, beginning in Corton-Charlemagne. All the cuvées contain 100% whole bunch. We did not have to alter the percentage of whole cluster, though we had to use some vats twice. Twenty-two seemed to gain structure at the end of the élevage but with respect to the 2023s, the structure was there at the beginning and is now beginning to soften. We have just racked the Perrières Rouge and Savigny Village into tank.”
Bize is an exemplar of whole bunch, low intervention, classically-styled wines. Looking for wines oozing tons of fruit? Look elsewhere. These wines do not pretend to disguise their stem addition, a fundamental part of Bize’s style. The high points are the Premier Cru Savignys, especially the Marconnets and Talmettes that possess sufficient fruit to absorb those stems, so fresh and complex. These are relatively approachable wines that have a propensity to mature and repay time in bottle.