I’m often asked why I choose to visit certain wineries. Of course, some wines are best tasted with the winemaker, and iconic estates deserve a close look at each vintage and any changes in process. But another important reason is the winemakers themselves—those who are transparent about vintages, willing to critique their own work, and eager to pose thought-provoking questions. Mikey Etzel and Beaux Frères fit all three categories.

Discussing the 2023 vintage, Etzel described a year that demanded close attention during harvest after nearly 90 days of drought-like conditions and constant warmth. The main challenge was berry desiccation, necessitating strict selection both in the vineyard and in the winery. The percentage of new oak here continues to shrink, and in 2023, no press wine was used. Etzel leaned into the 2023 vintage’s energetic, pure, fruit-forward character, and as a result, the wines are a total success, albeit with a 10-15% reduction in quantity across the board. Notably, all the oldest own-rooted vines on the estate have now been removed due to phylloxera. The newest vineyard to come online, The Bridge Vineyard, saw its first harvest in 2023. For now, that fruit goes into the Willamette Valley cuvée, but Etzel hopes The Bridge will soon yield a single-vineyard bottling.