92pts Wine Advocate

A barrel-selection blend based around Bien Nacido, the 2022 Chardonnay Nuits-Blanches au Bouge deftly balances a full-throttled core with equal measure of drive and vibrancy. Opening with a lifted bouquet of fennel, pastry cream and macadamia nuts with a stone-fruited core, the palate is broad and punchy before concluding with a sappy, pure and saline finish.

As much change as Aun Bon Climat has experienced since the passing of Jim Clendenen, the wines remain staunchly and unabashedly true to his vision. As a family affair that has existed for decades, the winery is filled with long-standing staff members who ensure that daily operations remain essentially unchanged. More leadership changes are soon to be underway, as longtime general manager Jim Adleman will retire following the conclusion of the 2025 harvest. Along with veteran winemakers Marc Piro and Enrique Rodriguez, Knox Clendenen has been overseeing cellar and harvest logistics, and his sister, Isabelle, has focused on brand representation and sales.

Chardonnay production focuses on whole-cluster pressing and barrel fermentations with extended aging to increase lees contact, ending with bentonite fining and a light filtration. The Pinot Noirs experience the full spectrum of whole-bunch retention, ranging from the completely destemmed Isabelle bottling, the 100% whole-cluster Larmes de Grappe and the inclusion of one-third whole clusters in the Knox Alexander. Pinot Noirs are fined with egg whites and bottled unfiltered. A high proportion of new, heavy toast François Frères barrels have always been and still are the order of the day across both varieties, sourced through a futures contract in which the winery secures three-year air-dried staves in advance.

Au Bon Climat started making “Nuits-Blanches” in 1996 when Jim Clendenen decided to “show off” the exceptional grape quality at Bien Nacido Vineyard. We picked later, sorted more, and kept the wine in barrel longer than any other Chardonnay. The Nuits-Blanches style is richer and oakier than other Au Bon Climat Chardonnays. Each vintage of Nuits-Blanches receives a title. In 2021, "Foresight" was chosen as we look toward a new decade and generation. 

  

This vibrant wine delivers a bold citrus punch. Layers of oak, macadamia nuts, and vanilla are followed by lemon zest. Notes of grapefruit, kumquat, and yuzu linger throughout the palate. Its high acidity harmonizes beautifully with the influence of new French oak, promising endless aging potential.

 

The fruit for “Nuits-Blanches” Chardonnay traditionally represents the best of Bien Nacido Vineyard “K Block”, in the Santa Maria Valley. Block “K” at Bien Nacido is one of the original blocks planted at Bien Nacido in early 1973 and is one of the best. Planted all to UC Davis clone 4, this clone in the cool Santa Maria Valley yields grapes low in pH at a ripe sugar level. A low pH Chardonnay will age better, integrate oak better, and pair with food better. Le Bon Climat is planted with Dijon Clones 76 and 96 which have riper characteristics at lower sugar than the Davis clones. The small amount of Le Bon Climat Chardonnay blended into this wine adds a nice layer of complexity and texture. 

The chardonnay experienced slow ripening and a cool harvest, and then handpicked at optimal acidity. After pressing, the wine was barrel fermented in 100% new French oak barrels. After completing malolactic fermentation, the wine aged gracefully on lees for one year before being racked and returned to barrels for an additional 8 months of aging. 

 

Harvested: October 15, 2021

Alcohol: 13.5%

pH: 3.34

Acidity: 7.3g/L

Sugars: 0