87-89 points Vinous Media
Drinking window: 2027 - 2035
The 2024 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru, which was also de-stemmed, has a bright and lively bouquet with scents of cranberry and wild strawberry. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy tannins, a little more weight and grip than the Monthélie with a twist of sour cherry on the brittle finish. Fine. - Neal Martin January 2026

87-89 points Wine Advocate
Delivering aromas evocative of red cherry, red plum and spices mingled with a faint hint of smoke, the 2024 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru is medium-bodied, vibrant and supple, with powdery tannins and a perfumed finish. As with Monthélie, this too was entirely destemmed in this vintage, but it is slightly denser.

Jean-Marc Roulot appeared satisfied with his 2024s, notwithstanding the complications of the growing season. His team harvested between September 10 and September 21, with yields in white varieties ranging from 30 to 45 hectoliters per hectare. As elsewhere in the region, however, the reds suffered significant losses, producing only 15 to 18 hectoliters per hectare; exceptionally, in response to sanitary conditions, two cuvées were vinified entirely destemmed. At harvest, they registered between 11.2% and 12.4% potential alcohol, requiring only minimal chaptalization in the least mature sites. Roulot observed that fermentations with indigenous yeasts were unusually slow to initiate this year, taking roughly 10 days to begin. The wines will be bottled in May and June, and everything I tasted remained in stainless steel; nevertheless, the soon-to-be-bottled 2024s are precise and tensile in the tongue-tingling, electric style typical of this address, gaining additional depth and amplitude as one ascends the appellation hierarchy. A number of the wines were framed by light reduction, and readers intending to open them young are advised to decant. The defining characteristics of each cuvée are explored in the tasting notes, while the accompanying article provides further insight into the domaine’s methods.

As readers will know from the earlier writing of my colleague William Kelley, over the last 25 years, Jean-Marc Roulot’s chiseled, incisive interpretation of Meursault—pared down to its essentials—has disrupted stereotypes of the appellation, charting a singularly original path. When his father Guy passed away in 1982, this historic estate was already well-known: alongside René Lafon’s Clos de la Barre, Guy was among the pioneers of lieu-dit bottlings at the communal level, showcasing the family’s holdings in some of the village’s finest hillside sites. After completing his acting studies at the Paris Conservatoire, Jean-Marc returned to the estate and eventually assumed full responsibility in 1989, bringing with him both the confidence and the aesthetic vision to chart his own course—flying in the face of the rich, buttery style then in vogue. Since 2023, he has been joined by his son Félicien, formerly a railway engineer in Paris.

Since 2000, farming has been organic (certified as such since 2013), with experiments in biodynamics. Harvesting is typically early—though that is determined by taste more than analysis—and the fruit is gently crushed in the winery, followed by slow pneumatic pressing, with pressure increasing in small increments to deliver a large juice yield for comparatively little pressure and with concomitantly low pH. In the cellar below, percentages of new oak were never elevated and have only declined; today, approximately 10% of barrels are renewed annually, while various ceramic vessels and foudres now complement traditional 228-liter barrels. After 12 months of élevage, the wines are racked into stainless steel with very little in the way of solids, where they spend a further six to eight months before bottling under natural cork. This approach delivers pure, fine-boned wines with a bright spine of acidity—especially in cooler vintages—with each site clearly differentiated.

The domaine’s 18.5 hectares, of which roughly 10% are devoted to Pinot Noir and many vines date from the 1960s, produce a broad portfolio. Generic bottlings of Bourgogne Aligoté and Bourgogne Blanc, as well as the excellent Auxey-Duresses, offer a more accessible introduction to the house style, while a communal Meursault—dominated by fruit from the low-lying Clos de la Baronne—is Roulot’s richest and softest wine. Eight lieu-dit bottlings now span a range of expositions and altitudes, from the chiseled, tensile Luchets and Meix Chavaux (both oriented northeast and running from mid-slope toward the upper reaches of the hillside) and the searingly chalky Vireuils (situated at the top of the slope, wind-exposed) to the fuller, more complete Tesson in the upper part of the mid-slope (about half of which was pulled out this year), the stony Casse-Têtes and Les Clous (both sites produce wines that are more floral-mineral than overtly fruity) as well as the young-vine Tillets and the more ample, demonstrative Narvaux (east-facing and likewise situated high on the slope). All of these vineyards lie within walking distance of one another and make for an excellent hiking circuit. Of the premiers crus, Porusot is the most immediate and Perrières the most electric and incisive; Charmes, from a parcel planted in 1942, seems to be coming into its own in warmer vintages, while the Clos des Bouchères offers a compelling synthesis of its three stablemates. The most recent addition to the portfolio is the enveloping yet simultaneously trenchant Genevrières, which completes the admirable Meursault lineup. Three pretty, delicate red wines—now vinified in a separate vat room and increasingly incorporating whole-cluster fermentation (with the exception of two cuvées in 2024)—complement the range of whites. - Kristaps Karklins May 2026