Flor de Muga Blanco Reserva 2022

Flor de Muga Blanco Reserva 2022

Flor de Muga Blanco Reserva 2022

Regular price $52.99
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94 points Wine Advocate
The white 2022 Flor de Muga Blanco Reserva was produced with a blend of 40% old-vine Viura, 30% Garnacha Blanca and 30% Maturana Blanca—they are one of the biggest producers of Maturana Blanca in Rioja and have 17 hectares, some still not in production. It fermented in small barrels at low temperature and then was kept in concrete eggs for three months (the Garnacha and the Maturana age superbly in the concrete), then it aged for six months in new barrels crafted by their coopers. It's very spicy and smoky, with a core of white fruit, flowers and herbs, a hint of fennel and aniseed. It's not a shy white; it's full bodied and comes in at 14% alcohol—it was a warm year—keeping a pH of 3.16 and 5.7 grams of acidity. It's powerful, balanced and gastronomical, a very serious white that should age very nicely in bottle. 27,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in September 2023. This wine was not produced in 2024.

The Muga family has 475 hectares of vineyards and keep buying vineyards from suppliers when they don't have anybody to take over from them. These vineyards cover around 60% of their needs, and they buy the rest from local growers. They have started the process of obtaining organic certification for some plots, as they do not use insecticides, herbicides or mineral fertilizers and apply sustainable practices, using pheromones and organic products for the treatment of the vines. They have 14,000 oak barrels and 250 oak vats, as the whole winery is based on wood; they don't use stainless steel at all. They produce 2.2 million bottles per year.

They are releasing wines from different vintages, and their take on the different years is not exactly like it is with other producers. They consider 2023 and 2024 quite challenging; in 2024, they only produced a Reserva red (and El Andén, where they have a lot of Garnacha from Tudelilla that was harvested before) and none of the others, because they see a lot of dilution in the wines because of the rain just before the harvest. 2022 was very good despite the warm temperatures and scarce rain, but for them, 2023 was warmer and they didn't make Prado Enea or Torre Muga. 2021 was a stellar year in Rioja and many other regions in Spain. As for 2025, winemaker Isaac Muga told me he likes it better than 2024; the wines are more aromatic, very clean and more approachable because 2024 was more challenging and 2025 was very healthy, even if it was a short crop. The results were very good, if you didn't harvest too early. The young white and the rosés are already from 2025.

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