93 points Vinous Media
Drinking window: 2026 - 2033
The 2021 Extra-Brut Chemin de Reims bristles with tension and acidity. Lemon peel, chalk, mint, slate and dried flowers open first. Tropical Chardonnay overtones follow, with hints of tangerine oil, passion fruit and mango. The 2021 offers an intriguing mix of brisk acids and distinctly tropical flavors, a combination that is quite unusual but that works well here.

Alexandre Chartogne is one of Champagne’s most dynamic growers. A new winemaking facility nearby is almost finished, while projects here seem to be many. Readers will note the range is a bit compact this year because of the challenges posed by the 2021 growing season. Chartogne will only release two 2021s, the Chemin de Reims in 2026 and the Hors Série (which he often refers to as the Avize) at a later date. In the meantime, Chartgone plans to make up for some of the lost volume by releasing magnums of several wines. These include the 2019 Chemin de Reims and the 2017, 2018 and 2019 Hors Série.