Gulfi NeroSanlore Sicilia IGT 2019
Gulfi NeroSanlore Sicilia IGT 2019
$47.99 on 6+ bottles (code: 6saves2)
95 pts Vinous
Drinking Window 2023 - 2033
A blend of crushed plums, rose petals, lavender and Violette pastille creates a deeply seductive bouquet as the 2019 NeroSanloré blossoms in the glass. This is a model of grace and elegance with silky textures, vividly ripe red and blue fruits elevated by sour citrus and a core of stimulating acidity. It finishes long and staining, with sweet tannins that frame the experience beautifully as tangerine and blackberry fade. The 2019 NeroSanloré is to die for; what a gorgeous Nero d'Avola.
- By Eric Guido, June 2023
Our Tasting Note: Deep ruby core, lighter edges. A pronounced nose starts with a compote of dark red, blue, and blackberries, with savory spices, juicy blood orange pith and peel, sweet smoke, paprika spices, and graphite. Full bodied, full grain tannins, dense and deep flavors, with a long, structured, juicy, finish. Very good!
Vinous Media, Eric Guido
Anyone who doubts the longevity and site-transparent properties of Nero d’Avola needs to only check with the Gulfi portfolio. Over the last few years, the winery has sent assorted bottles from older vintages (2002 and 2003 were the most recent), which I’ve included in past reports to show how well these wines can age. This year, I thought it prudent to follow those up with a full-fledged vertical. I chose the NeroSanloré, which I tasted from the upcoming 2020 vintage, back to 2001 (the first release), a total of eight vintages. The NeroSanloré vineyard is situated only 700 meters from the sea at just 10-15 meters above sea level, growing in predominantly sandy soils. We added an older NeroMaccarj from 2006 to the mix after discovering how complex and vibrant the 2006 NeroSanloré was. The results of the tasting were astounding. While I’ve been a fan of mature Nero d’Avola for some time, seeing how well each of the vintages showed was remarkable. Cellaring these wines will reward patient collectors, which brings me to the upcoming 2020s. The wines have yet to be bottled and are still in inox (stainless steel), scheduled to be released in 2026. They possess a level of depth, energy and complexity that is seldom seen. While the result of a warm and dry year, the balance Gulfi achieved in these wines is spellbinding. I find a bit more muscle for the long term in the 2019s, but I wouldn’t pass up the chance to add the 2020s to my cellar.
Gulfi’s Matteo Catania has come back swinging after the difficult 2018 vintage. The 2019s are gorgeous, deep, rich, dark-fruited and classically structured. What’s more, they are transparent to terroir, which makes it hard for me even to recommend one over the other. Catania described 2019 as a balanced year without drastic climatic or notable heat events. This year, I also tasted a selection of 2002 cru wines, the Nerobaronj and Nerosanlorenzj and the 2003 NeroSanloré, which all showed beautifully. Catania has been a strong proponent of Nero d'Avola’s ability to age. A bottle of wine rarely makes it from my tasting table to the dinner table, but with the 2002 Nerosanlorenzj, I simply couldn’t resist. These are some of the best wines being made, not just in Sicily but all of Italy.
Our Tasting Note: Deep ruby core, lighter edges. A pronounced nose starts with a compote of dark red, blue, and blackberries, with savory spices, juicy blood orange pith and peel, sweet smoke, paprika spices, and graphite. Full bodied, full grain tannins, dense and deep flavors, with a long, structured, juicy, finish. Very good!
Winery:
One of the four Contrada (Grand Cru Vineyards) of Gulfi. San Lore is short for San Lorenzo. This vineyard is the closest to the ocean and has red, sandy soil. These vineyards are down the hill from the town of Avola, and it is here where Nero d'Avola originated. Elegant and beguiling red wine with notes of crushed stone, roses, fresh berry, incense and tart cherry. Medium plus body, soft, silky tannins.