Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Rose 'Fleur de Pinot' 2023
Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Rose 'Fleur de Pinot' 2023
94 points Charles Curtis, MW (Decanter): "This complex, serious wine boasts a lovely copper colour and captivating aromas of candied red fruit, rose petals and exotic spices touched with smoke. The texture is silky and very fine, yet there is impressive substance and tension here. Pinot Noir and a dollop of Pinot Beurrot (Pinot Gris) are both used; half goes directly to the press and the other half is macerated on the skins before pressing. The result is aged for two years in large oak uprights, to deliver one of the world's great rosé wines. Drinking Window: 2025-2035. (10/18/24)"
5 Star Wine
89-91 pts Jasper Morris
Crushed whole bunches as some reds, for some, and direct press for a part, then foudre, demi-muid and barrel. Will be kept in wood for at least 24 months. Medium rosé colour in the middle, onion skin at the edges. A light pinot fruit, then, at this stage of elevage, a rougher texture which should soften with the extra ageing. Hard to read as there is no other wine made like it in the region. The return of the pinot persistence marks the quality. Retasted after the reds and it blossomed further. Should I have found a fifth star for the Fleur de Pinot? Yes, so I have. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Dec 2024.
- Variety: Pinot Noir, Pinot Beurot
- Vine Age: Planted in 1932 (En Blungey), 1934 (Champforeys), and 1949 (Charme Aux Prêtres)
- Terroir: Charme Aux Prêtres, limestone soils; Champforeys, clay soils; En Blungey, Pinot Beurot
- Viticulture: Certified organic, biodynamic methods
- Vinification: 40-50% directly pressed, 50-60% short maceration, ambient yeast fermentation, blended, aged for 18-24 months in foudre and demi-muids, minimal SO2 added at bottling.
Sylvain has at least two parcels on opposite ends of the vineyard. The vines here are old, the youngest being planted in 1949, and consist of Chardonnay, Aligoté, and Pinot Noir for Rosé. Sylvain notes the characteristic reductive minerality despite the change in location, grape, and bedrock. He believes this minerality is so beautiful that it would be a shame to make red wine on this terroir.