Domaine Dupont-Fahn Auxey-Duresses 'Derriere le Four’ Rouge 2023
Domaine Dupont-Fahn Auxey-Duresses 'Derriere le Four’ Rouge 2023
Regular price
$5799
$57.99
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The name “Derrière le Four” means “Behind the Oven” — a reference to the historical vineyard parcel.
About the Producer:
Raymond Dupont-Fahn is just turning 40 but he's been managing his family's vineyards and cellar for almost 20 years now. His secret to success is no secret at all: working hard in the vineyard (and without pesticides/herbicides), and careful, clean cellar work. Raymond uses at most 20% new oak and only racks or stirs to avoid overt reduction. He also tends to harvest right as the fruit reaches peak maturity and avoids over-ripeness like the plague. This is to achieve the bright, pure and transparent style of Chardonnay that Raymond prefers. And rumor has it that he's become close with the winemaking team at Coche-Dury, which has inspired him to focus even more on achieving the transparency of each individual parcel.
In the short time since Raymond Dupont-Fahn took over the family domaine, he has earned a reputation for crafting wines that consistently overdeliver. Based in the village of Tailly in Meursault, the domaine cultivates 10 hectares across Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, and Auxey-Duresses.
Although Dupont-Fahn owns only one Premier Cru—Puligny Les Folatières—his numerous individually vinified lieux-dits display remarkable character and finesse. One site in particular, Bourgogne “Chaumes des Perrières,” has long held personal significance for him. Effectively a declassified Meursault Dos d’Ane, with part of the plot lying within the Chaumes des Perrières climat, it was fallow when his grandfather Jean purchased it in 1975. Finding the topsoil too shallow, Jean petitioned the INAO to add a 20 cm layer of earth—permission was granted, but the move sparked protests from local growers and ultimately led to the site’s downgrade to Bourgogne. Even so, it remains a superb terroir, positioned just above Coche-Dury’s vineyards, with roots plunging deep into the stones of Les Dos d’Ane while benefiting from the microclimate of Chaumes des Perrières.
Under Raymond’s leadership, the domaine has shifted toward a more restrained, terroir-focused style. He has reduced new oak from his father’s 40% to just 10%, using barrels no more than three years old. Committed to sustainability, he avoids pesticides in the vineyards and harvests slightly earlier to preserve acidity and keep alcohol levels in check. The results are wines of striking balance and clarity—precise, expressive, and among the best values you’ll find in Meursault, declassified or otherwise.
