The 2020 Savagnin Antide, a cuvée named after Ganevat's son, reveals itself as the best Savagnin from 2020. It's stunning and a big jump from the quality of the négoce wines. This was made with estate grapes from vines in Grands Teppes and in the village of Grusse and produced in the ouillé, topped-up style without the development of flor. It displays a very bright, almost fluorescent yellow color, a complex and flinty nose, faintly reductive, with stony and mineral sensations, and a tasty, long and salty finish. It comes in at 13% alcohol. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered on the 31st of October 2024. It's very Savagnin, salty, with fine reduction.

I had a great visit at Ganevat and tasted a good number of bottled wines with winemaker Jocelyn Broncard. We talked about the last harvest, 2024, which was again "catastrophic." He said, "We lost the majority of grapes because of frost, and we will only release a Savagnin, a Chardonnay and a red that is going to have over 30% of Enfariné grapes, because it's a rustic and resistant variety." For Broncard, 2024 will be an improved version of 2021, another year hit hard with frost but with vibrant and fresh wines. The red was already blended and was very aromatic, with notes of translucent red berries, rose hip, hibiscus and watermelon and with a fine and elegant reduction.

The 2023 reds were all bottled, and the whites in bottle were from 2020, as they are extending the aging of the whites in barrel to four years now. As I have explained, the quality of the reds has increased with the arrival of Broncard in 2020, and there have also been many general improvements, such as a sorting table and better refrigeration, which have resulted in more precision and focus in the wines. In 2023, they got a good crop, and despite being a warm year, the wines have more freshness than in 2022. The one red they didn't show me from 2023 is the Poulsard, which they are going to hold in bottle for one more year, as they think this wine is a completely different animal with one more year in bottle.

The 2020 whites have unusual freshness for a warmish year. They are true believers of long élevage for the whites; the Vignes de Mon Père is now bottled 14 years after the harvest, but all the 2020 whites saw four years of aging, which is exceptional. Wines from this warm and sunny vintage, greatly benefited from the effect of the long aging in used barrels, cask, foudres and amphorae, and they gained energy.

Of course, all the vintages of Vignes de Mon Père after 2010 are still maturing, but there are some other older whites still aging, like the Savagnin 2018 Les Chalasses Marnes Bleues, which only finished fermenting last year! It's a wine that was last released from the 2016 vintage because it was not produced in 2017.

These are some of the most exciting wines in Jura (and the world!), but they are getting increasingly more and more difficult to find, as the demand is much greater than the supply, which is always limited, but it has become even more so now because of the lower yields due to frost and the longer élevage that the wines are getting.