92 pts Burghound
A beautifully layered if extremely subtle and restrained nose speaks softly of yeast, citrus and green apple scents where there is a whisper of pear in the background. The mouth feel of the attractively precise flavors is equally cool and restrained and this impression is enhanced by the moderately firm but fine mousse, all wrapped in a dry but not really austere finale.

This comes from all three communes where Lilbert farms vines (100% Grand Crus in the Côte des Blancs (Cramant, Chouilly, Oiry).). Typically, it is made with three consecutive vintages and is aged on its lees for a minimum of three years beginning in April following the harvest.  It's also made entirely from the first pressing; Bertrand's second press juice for all three cuvées is sold to Moët.  

100% Grand Cru Chardonnay from Oiry, Chouilly, and Cramant in the Cote des Blancs. 50% 2018, 50% Reserve.

With the warmer years, Bertrand began to lower his dosages from the usual 6-7 grams to less than 5 grams, beginning with the NV based on 2014.  The NV based on 2015 received 4 grams; the NV based on 2016 received 3 grams.  The style isn't changing so much as the weather is warming.  The non-vintage represents 60% of his production, and the yearly average is 18,000 bottles plus 2,000 half bottles.

Lilbert owns 3.5 hectare of vines- all Grand Cru, and all Chardonnay, with an average vine age of 45 years- in the Côte des Blancs. 60% of their vines are in Cramant, 30% in Chouilly and 10% in Oiry. These are three of the six Grand Cru villages in the Côte des Blancs. It is rare that any one house owns exclusively Grand Cru vineyards in the Côte des Blancs; Bertrand calls himself "very lucky" to be able to make wines from such prestigious vineyards. All of the parcels are vinified separately until two weeks before bottling. The NV represents 80% of the production and is aged in the cellar for two years. Dosage is normally around 7g/L, since Bertrand is going for acidity in his wines and not ripeness. (He does not perform batonnage because it makes the wines too heavy.) The winery is tiny and the latest investment is a 4,000kg pneumatic press and a disgorgement machine. Each bottle is still riddled by hand. The end result is a true connoisseurs champagne.