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90pts Vinous
The 2021 Chablis Boucheran has an expressive nose, well-defined with apple blossom and just a slightly oily note that lends complexity. The palate is well balanced with good weight, not overly complex but there is plenty of density on the finish that is very Chablis in style. This is well worth hunting down. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2033

- By Neal Martin on June 2022

Edouard Vocoret met me at the winery to guide me through a small portfolio of 2021s. Together with his wife Eleni, the Vocorets have become symbols of welcome new blood in Chablis. Vocoret told me how they have been delving into the geology of their holdings. “We have an explanation about the way the Boucheran evolves because two-thirds is on the yellow marl soils whereas Les Pargues is on white grey marl. We talked to geologists who told us that the yellow marl is more oxidized, explaining how Boucheran can be more aromatically intense compared to Les Pargues that tends to be austere. The season started with the spring frost. We lost two-thirds on the Left Bank and one-third on the Right Bank, but the yield was around 32hL/ha. It was a juicy year so the yields were higher than we anticipated yet our normal 160 barrels is halved this year.”

Eleni and Edouard Vocoret are among the new wave of young vignerons breathing fresh life into Chablis, combining deep respect for traditional terroir expression with a thoughtful, minimal-intervention approach. Their holdings are small, but each parcel is farmed organically with meticulous care, and vinified separately to highlight nuance. En Boucheran is a single-vineyard Chablis situated on the left bank of the Serein River, near Préhy. Here the vines are rooted in the region’s hallmark Kimmeridgian limestone soils, rich in marine fossils, which impart the saline, mineral character so prized in Chablis.

The 2021 vintage was marked by severe spring frosts and a cooler, more classical growing season. While yields were dramatically reduced, the wines that emerged are taut, chiseled, and vibrant—a return to the incisive, mineral-driven profile that made Chablis famous. Grapes were harvested by hand, gently pressed, and fermented with native yeasts. Eleni and Edouard raise their wines in a combination of stainless steel and old oak barrels, with no bâtonnage, preserving tension and precision while allowing a subtle textural roundness from lees aging. Sulfur additions are minimal, and bottling is done with only light filtration.

The Chablis En Boucheran 2021 opens with delicate yet vivid aromatics of lemon zest, crisp green apple, and white peach, alongside floral notes of acacia and hawthorn. Beneath the fruit lies a chalky, seashell-like minerality that immediately situates the wine in Chablis. With time in the glass, nuances of wet stone, iodine, and a touch of almond add depth.

On the palate, the wine is racy and tensile, with a crystalline acidity that drives the flavors forward. Citrus and orchard fruit notes unfold into savory mineral layers, accented by hints of fennel and subtle spice. The texture is lithe but not austere—there is a gentle mid-palate creaminess from lees contact that balances the wine’s energy. The finish is long, saline, and precise, leaving a lingering impression of chalk and citrus.

This is a Chablis of purity and clarity, capturing the finesse of the left bank terroirs and the lean, mineral-driven style of the 2021 vintage. While already compelling in its youthful brightness, En Boucheran has the structure to evolve over the next 5–7 years, developing greater depth, complexity, and textural harmony.

Perfect pairings include oysters, clams, and shellfish, but it also shines with goat cheese, sushi, or simple white meats dressed with lemon and herbs. Vocoret’s Chablis En Boucheran 2021 is a beautifully articulate expression of site and vintage—vivid, refined, and alive with terroir.