Domaine M & C Lapierre Morgon 2024

Domaine M & C Lapierre Morgon 2024

Domaine M & C Lapierre Morgon 2024

Regular price $44.99 Sale price $39.99 Save $5
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90-92 pts Vinous
The 2024 Morgon that I tasted from barrel came from the first and third pickings. There is plenty of vivacious white-tipped strawberry and Morello cherry on the nose. The palate is lively and very citrus-driven with red cherries, orange zest, noticeably "punchy" acidity and a chalky finish.
- By Neal Martin on March 2025
 • Semi-carbonic maceration without SO2, for 10-21 days
• Ages 9 months in 216 liter barrels

Summary By Neal Martin on March 2025
There are behind-the-scenes changes at Marcel Lapierre. Co-Proprietor Mathieu Lapierre now divides his time between Beaujolais and Montreal, where his wife lives. Lapierre intends to be present in the Beaujolais for crucial moments of the growing season, and in any case, his sister, Camille, has been co-managing the domaine for a number of years. Unfortunately, she was ill on the day of my visit, so it was her husband, Italian-born Giorgio Demichelis, who guided me through the wines.
“Two thousand twenty-four was quite complicated,” Demichelis tells me as we taste outside in their courtyard opposite the winery. “The weather was unstable, with a lot of rain throughout the season, only stopping for short periods. Since we are 100% organic, it was difficult to treat the vines because the rain could wash away the treatments. There was a constant danger that you could lose your harvest, but we had a lot of solidarity within the team to get us through the tough moments. In some plots, we lost 80% of the harvest due to mildew and black rot, plus a bit of oïdium. We did a three-to-four-week carbonic maceration on all cuvées, whereas in 2023, we conducted a slightly shorter carbonic maceration to avoid extracting bitterness. This was not a concern in 2024 because we had high malic acid, which slowed down the lactic bacteria and allowed us to extend the maceration. We only add sulfur at bottling. Around 60% of our yield is bottled with SO2 and 40% without.”

Farming: Biodynamic

From biodynamically-farmed, decomposed granite vineyards in the Cru of Morgon, the Gamay grapes are picked with a mind for rainbow spectrum fleshy, ripe fruit (blood orange to bright red, and on through to black plum and cherry). Coupled with stony, flinty minerality, a gorgeous core of fine tannin, and fresh acidity, Domaine Marcel Lapierre's Morgon makes us happier than we can convey.

Little would we know that when Marcel Lapierre took over the family Domaine from his father in 1973, he was on the road to becoming a legend. In 1981, his path would be forever changed by Jules Chauvet, a man whom many now call his spiritual godfather. Chauvet was a winemaker, a researcher, a chemist, and a viticultural prophet. It was he who, upon the advent of chemical fertilizers and pesticides in the 1950s, first spoke out for "natural wine," harkening back to the traditional methods of the Beaujolais. Joined by local vignerons Guy Breton, Jean-Paul Thévenet, and Jean Foillard, Marcel spearheaded a group that soon took up the torch of this movement. Kermit dubbed this clan the Gang of Four, and the name has stuck ever since. These rebels called for a return to the old practices of viticulture and vinification: starting with old vines, never using synthetic herbicides or pesticides, harvesting late, rigorously sorting to remove all but the healthiest grapes, adding minimal doses of sulfur dioxide or none at all, and disdaining chaptalization. Sadly, the end of the 2010 vintage was Marcel's last. He passed away at the end of the harvest--a poetic farewell for a man that forever changed our perception of Beaujolais. His son Mathieu and daughter Camille confidently continue the great work that their father pioneered, now introducing biodynamic vineyard practices and ensuring that Marcel's legacy lives on.

 

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