2020 Condrieu 'Coteau de Vernon'
96WS / JLL ****(*)
50–80 year old vines are planted in a 2.5 ha vineyard on south and southeast facing terraces with biotite granite soils. Mechanization is impossible on the very uneven and steep vineyard. The vines are cared for manually using organic farming techniques. The vines are pruned using the simple guyot system. Grapes are harvested manually, then the of whole crop is direct pressed and clarified before fermentation in barrels. The wine is aged on fine lees in the same barrels for 12 to 18 months (25% new wood).
level yellow robe; the nose sits quietly behind what is sure depth led for now by pear fruit, cooked pear, with discreet apricot, lime cordial, aniseed, a tone of cooked apple with light oaking. The palate shows the customary finesse of Vernon, is a silken affair, very pleasing on its texture, the flow gradual and well measured. There’s precision in the late stages, a fruit clarity that raises its colours away from la terre, the grounding that lies within. This is sophisticated, rather complex, a wine to study. It holds its length well. 14.5°. From mid-2024, say. 2038-40 April 2022
96 pts Wine Spectator
Bold, weighty and tightly coiled, with layers of ripe melon, honey, lemon cream, ginger and green fig simmering beneath the surface. A racy mineral streak tears through the plump, silky palate, bringing power and energy. Reveals chamomile and dried green herbs that highlight the very long, structured finish. This has beautiful elegance and verve despite its density. Drink now through 2030. 684 cases made, 46 cases imported.